petak, 29. siječnja 2010.

Carpinus orientalis 2010/4

This is a new one. The dig was pure stone. Almost. My dear Mario...without your 120 kg and lot of good will...that would be much harder. Thanks.

Very nice terrain for digging trees, don't you think?
What now?
The monster with a new owner. Which one is The Monster??? :)

A few possible angulations and positions in the pot. In a couple of years time.
This is a tiny one :)

Back side, maybe?

Broj komentara: 6:

  1. no words ;-), only respekt for that stnning trees ;-)
    but thats how we now you by now ;-)

  2. Hello Sandev,

    very nice tree's, looking forward to see them in a few years as stunning bonsai.

    Why don't you post photos of the jackhammer? ;)

    Regards from Portugal,

    Pedro Inacio

  3. Sebastijan-
    Wow, impressive. I spent 1 hour digging my first yamadori and I was spent! Inspirational

    I have a couple of quesitons. I notice that the Carpinus doesnt require much as far as a root ball goes to survive once transplanted. I mean there are harly any fibrous roots. Do you find this with other species as well?

    Also, after reading some of WP's tips on collecting, it seems that he tends to prefer leaving the tree for a year before doing any pruning at all- he recommends not touching it for a year. In your photos you have done drastic reductions to the trees. Is this because of the nature of deciduous, as opposed to coniferous suffering death of a branch with no foilage? I realize that conifers cannot survive such drastic pruning, but is there an advantage/disadvantage to doing such drastic pruning at the time of collecting?

    Last quesiton- can you describe your substrate mix for these nely collected trees?

    Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing

    St. George, Utah USA

  4. Casey!
    In my case, yamadori digging takes between 1 and 3 hours. Depends of situation and difficulty of a plant.
    About roots...this tree was extremely laborious to dig. And it grew between two or three rocks and close to some other tree. It was pretty impossible to make wide enough trench around the tree to isolate roots. So that was the case. I strongly believe that the tree will be fine. Carpinuses are very tough species and they grow like weeds. But, usually i prefer to collect much more roots than it is the case with this tree. Here, I have to count on Carpinus ability to produce roots from stump. And that was seen before. Do not do that on purpose, always try to collect as much roots as possible. Yes there are some other species that doesn't require so much roots for succesful transplantation. Buxus, for example. Pinus mugho, Ligustrum spp...etc.
    Regarding drastic prunning...I also leave the tree alone for a couple of years after collecting. That is obligatory. Pinuses has to be left at peace for three to five years. Deciduous species for one year, rarely two. All the trees in my photos are drasticly pruned at the collection site. Not after that. And the same principle is with Walter. So, leaving the tree alone applies on time after collection and for couple of years in future.
    Coniferous trees MUST have green foliage on every branch that you want to stay alive. Deciduous trees do not care. You can cut them as much as you like in time of collecting. There are some exceptions. For example...Fagus.. (beech). My experience is that Pinus species benefits with leaving as much green mass it's possible. But you have to mist them a lot. A LOT.
    Substrate mix is very simple...PURE pumice or pure floreopor (liapor)...that is expanded clay granules. Sometimes I throw in a few handful of peat...that is maybe 10-20%. Of course, you have to maintain a good regime of fertilizing because this type of substrate is without any nutritions and, probably sterile.

    You're welcome Casey


  5. Thanks! I have a couple more questions for you:

    1- Fertilizer: With pure pumice or pure clay with added peat and fertilizer, do you start fertilizing immediately upon collecting in the springtime? If so, what would you recommend for deciduous vs pine in this aspect?

    2-Wound Sealing: Do you seal large wounds, or leave them, or do you have any experience vice versa?

    3- Sun: How much sun do you prefer give them in their first year?

  6. I start fertilize immediately after collecting, that's because I use slow release fertilizer pellets behind the name Plantella and that is just processed chicken shit without odour. That's the best slow release fertilizer there is. But, to became effective it takes approximately a month, so it is not harmful to put it on your trees any time as soon you pot your newly collected tree.

    I do not seal the wounds generaly. Sometimes, I put animal grease (seal grease that you can buy for impregnating hiking boots or shoes in stores) to large wounds, but that's just sometimes...
    It is ok to leave large wounds open, no harm can be from this.

    You should be very cautious with the sun. I would prefere half shade in middle summer!